Videos of “Sephora kids” have been all over social media recently, showing children spending hundreds of dollars on skincare products.Most children require little to maintain healthy skin; using products not intended for their age group, like anti-aging treatments, can harm them.Experts recommend consulting a dermatologist if you have persisting skin issues.
Social media is buzzing with conversations about “Sephora kids”—children or preteens who spend a lot of time and money buying skincare products.
But, some of these popular products, like anti-aging skincare, may do more harm than good if used too early.
“A child’s skincare routine should be basic,” Michele Green, MD, a board-certified cosmetic dermatologist based in New York, told Health. “Many of the active ingredients in anti-aging skincare products may be irritating to young skin.”
She explained that skincare products can be especially damaging for children if they’re using multiple topical treatments that aren’t intended for their age group.
Here’s how early is too early for preventative skincare products, what counts as an appropriate skincare routine for a child, and what kinds of products can be dangerous if used too early.
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Despite recent videos showing children buying armfuls of skincare products at cosmetics stores, kids do not need much to keep their skin healthy.
A basic skincare routine can help children develop good practices around caring for their skin, Joshua Zeichner, MD, a dermatologist at the Mount Sinai Hospital, told Health.
“Good skincare is always a good idea, even from a young age,” Zeichner said. “[However,] a child does not have to spend hundreds of dollars on a skincare product for it to be effective.”
Many skincare routines need to be individualized—based on a person’s skin type and any symptoms they’re experiencing—but, generally speaking, Green said that children only need a gentle cleanser, a noncomedogenic moisturizer (i.e., one that doesn’t clog pores), and sunscreen.
Each of these products serves a different purpose.
“A cleanser will remove any debris, excess oil, and dead skin cells that might otherwise lead to a number of skin issues—including irritation, acne, and dullness,” Green explained. “Moisturizer provides essential hydration and reinforces the skin’s natural protective barrier, [and] sunscreen helps protect the skin from the various types of damage caused by UV rays.”
Sunscreen is the “most important” skincare product for children since UV light is the main cause of premature aging later in life and the development of skin cancer, Zeichner added.
As a child continues to develop, they will likely need a few other products.
“In addition to these products, a teenager may also choose to incorporate products like a gentle exfoliant or an acne spot treatment,” Green explained. “[This is because] hormone fluctuations during puberty often cause acne breakouts, which can be managed with products containing ingredients like salicylic acid, niacinamide, benzoyl peroxide, and glycolic acid.”
Adults, on the other hand, can consider adding anti-aging products to their skincare lineup.
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While many adults may benefit from anti-aging products, some of the ingredients in these products can be harmful to less mature skin.
According to Green, the most popular active ingredients in anti-aging skincare products are retinol and vitamin C. The former can be harmful to children and generally isn’t needed until a person is in their twenties.
“Retinol is a derivative of vitamin A, which stimulates new collagen production and increases the rate of skin cell turnover,” she explained. “Retinol is a great option for reducing fine lines, dark spots, and deeper wrinkles, and can also help keep pores clear, [while] vitamin C, a powerful antioxidant, protects against free radicals that can lead to premature signs of aging.”
Vitamin C can also improve skin tone and texture, and it has anti-inflammatory properties, Green added.
Though retinol is among the most common active ingredients found in anti-aging products, it isn’t the only one that can be harmful to children.
“Retinol and chemical exfoliant ingredients like AHAs [alpha hydroxy acids] and BHAs [beta hydroxy acids] may have a negative impact on the natural protective barrier and microbiome of young skin, which is still changing and can be more sensitive,” Green said.
These products can do even more damage when used in conjunction with one another.
“These ingredients can be particularly damaging to young skin when used together, [which is another reason] it’s best to keep the skincare routine to a few simple steps to prevent irritation,” she explained.
Products branded as fragrant may also be harmful to children.
“I do not recommend teens or tweens applying products that contain fragrances that can lead to potential allergies or irritation,” Zeichner said. “Many botanical ingredients can cause allergic reactions, so I don’t recommend using them in younger patients.”
Misusing these skincare products can cause symptoms that are hard to clear up, particularly if a child uses the wrong products for a long time.
“Overuse of skincare products—especially those with harsh actives, fragrances, or botanicals—can lead to skin rashes like contact dermatitis,” Zeichner said. “Overuse of occlusive products—like skin masks—can also lead to perioral dermatitis, a rash characterized by red bumps and pimples around the mouth that can be challenging to treat.”
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While a complex skincare routine isn’t typically recommended for children, there are some exceptions.
Any unusual symptoms—including persistent acne—should prompt an appointment with a skin specialist, no matter a person’s age. Doctors may recommend the use of prescription-strength treatments and may advise patients with acne, or other skin issues, to stop using over-the-counter products.
When a person starts noticing symptoms that affect their skin, such as pimples, it’s important to make an appointment with a dermatologist quickly.
“A dermatologist should promptly treat acne to prevent permanent scarring,” Green explained, “which can often be even more challenging to resolve than breakouts.”